PARIS COUTURE WEEK 2019 | PART 1

Paris Couture Week has begun and with that comes exaggerate gowns and even bolder colours: Dior took us to the circus, Herpen engineered 3D designs on futuristic patterns and Schiaparelli showed prettiness and boldness. The first day set the tone for the rest of couture week as we continue to see some of the biggest designers showcase their Haute Couture collections.

SCHIAPARELLI

ALESSANDRO LUCIONI / GORUNWAY.COM

Schiaparelli theme: soft, sweet, porcelain colours – the bold statement of prettiness was brought onto the runway, it went from miniskirts in satin to full-on evening glamour.The inspiration for the collection coming heavily from Bertrand’s childhood, one strapless dress in leaf green embroidered with flowers mirrored the scenes of a garden, lined with a pink petticoat.

IRIS VAN HERPEN

FILIPPO FIOR / GORUNWAY.COM

This collection was perfectly engineered exploring 3D designs with focus on couture fabrics. The show opening with a midnight blue-pleated gown with curved wing-like sleeves and was seen later on with a printed Op Art version. Cream dresses were covered in concentric layers similar to a map, with then a long sleeved dress made from a 3D material with neon orange curved around the body almost looking like flames.

The colour and dyeing techniques stood out for this collection, warm tones of purple and indigo which added a futuristic spin to fashion and something to be seen in a galaxy far, far away.

DIOR 

Maria Grazia Chiuri took her Haute Couture show to the circus, staged in a circus tent in the garden of Musée Rodin where acrobats in leotards from the troupe Mimbre performed alongside Chirui’s models.

The collection mirroring the grand costumes, glitter and performers of the circus. The theme of powerful women was once again intertwined into this collection, something all to familiar for Chiruri after her debut collection for Dior being centred around the slogan “We should all be feminists”. Women stood on other women’s shoulders, contemporary performance stunts were brought to the runaway.

The collection itself featuring on-brand semi-transparent crinolined gowns as well as greatcoats and tail coats were brought into the mix, further conforming to the metaphor of the circus. Tutu dresses and nude jumpsuits with thousands of hand-stitched beads were something Chiruri knows all too well. Chiruri is an expert at tailoring, ruffled necks tied together with jackets and coats in lavish fabrics deserved a collection of their own.

RALPH & RUSSO