MILAN FASHION WEEK RTW S/S HIGHLIGHTS PART 1

Milan has kicked off this Wednesday with some of the biggest designers and best shows of the season. Byblos brought a futuristic spin with a aim to bring awareness to the ongoing environmental issues. At Max Mara we were sent back into the archives for a 1980's inspired collection and at Moncler's outerwear was taken to the next level with designers showcasing their own capsule collections. Read about my highlights below.

Disclaimer: I do not own any of the photos, the rightful owner(s) are credited below. 

BYBLOS

MONICA FEUDI / INDIGITAL.TV

 Byblos brought a futuristic Spring/Summer ’19 showcase to open Milan Fashion Week. The inspiration of the collection was the cult music festival Burning Man held once a year in Black Rock City, Nevada which served for a joyful and energetic collection. Keeping on the theme of elaborate costumes on show at a music festival the line-up was filled with flamboyant and futuristic looks, including sliver leather minidresses embellished with fringe. Metallic detailing also incorporated onto acid washed denim jacket worn with a matching miniskirt while parkers punctuating with pockets created from colourful reflective fabrics. Winnie Harlow was one of the many models featured in the show and is one of the most demanded models during the current run of fashion weeks. Winnie stormed the runway in a low-cut , beehive effect top. Another look was an offbeat blue co-ord that was aimed to raise awareness to the ongoing environmental issues. Cropped jacket and mini-skirts with accents of sliver and ruched features allowed a flattering fit.  The collection featuring jackets with possessed large pockets which were labelled ‘metal’ and the other ‘plastic’ in a nod to recycling.

Jil Sander 

MONICA FEUDI / INDIGITAL.TV

Jil Sander took their signature elegant minimalism but added a feminine and edgy vibe. The aesthetic of the brand remained the same with silhouettes being minimal and rigorous. Graphic shirts with pockets worn together with coordinated pants, maxi dresses with geometric details at the cuffs worn with jackets. Manipulated blazers and zippered vests worked into the collection as well as micro shirts, some hourglass shapes others with a softer touch. Loose sweaters embellished with patch prints with side slit put over knee-length pleated skirts. Sporty vibes were introduced with maxi dresses and fluid trench-coats with skirt construction which added a unfussy sophistication to the line-up.

ALBERTA FERRETTI 

INDIGITAL

Alberto Ferretti Spring/Summer collection was made for the dynamic women, he casted some of the most famous models of the moment from Bella and Gigi Hadid to Kaia Gerber and Kendall Jenner. A new silhouette was built fluctuating volumes and shapes that leave your body free. Colours passing pastels such as pink and blues but moving towards completeness of desert colours. Cargo pants in a hyper-flattering shade of khaki and a pair of pink dungarees worn over a bikini. For an evening we have random chiffon maxi dress with a pale peach slip dress also in the running. For a cool day crochet leggings and pastel-hued crops tops are the answer or a smart pair of trousers with a paper-bag waist. 

NO.21

MARCUS TONDO / INDIGITAL.TV

 No.21’s show opened with an all-black sequence of staples done in glossy fabrics that gave off a killer edge. A forties-style glazed chiffon blouse with a bin-liner sheen put with a pencil skirt with a faux patent leather shimmering. A plan vest and skirt layered with thick rhinestone chains showing the outline of the t-shirt. A touch of masculine tailoring was included with a boxy outerwear in sculptural fabrics like soft nudes. Embellishment was to a minimum, dresses trimmed in showy ostrich feathers and a slip-dress covered in sparkles.

MONCLER

MARCUS TONDO / INDIGITAL.TV
Moncler’s genius project for Spring 2019 was finally uncovered today with collaboration with Simone Rocha, Craig green and Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli.This projects aim was to elevate outerwear and take it to the next level, each designer had to make their own capsule collection. It was inspired by the Victorian Mountain Climbers and functional femininity. The opening sequence by Simone Rocha showcased her innovative flower-sprinkled vinyl coats and exploding flower puffers. Her alluring experiment with vinyl and transparent trench embroidered with tiny daisies. A traditional Moncler puffer was morphed into the collection with frilly flowers and a Japanese nylon raincoat trimmed with frills and pearls.Craig Green brought a segment if cleverly fragmentary exploration of tents and kites inspired his outerwear. Hiroshi Fujiwara brought field jackets and parks in animated forms.

MAX MARA

• KIM WESTON ARNOLD / INDIGITAL.TV

Max Mara’s designer Ian Friffths went to their 1980’s archive with this collection, while working on his spring collection he was engrossed in recent updates on classic Green myths by female authors including Emily Wilson. These books were the inspiration for his collection as he imaged modern day Amazonian women wearing his designs. To achieve this, he went to the 1980’s archive of strong-shouldered coats and jacket traced with ruffles and layered them over draped tops and skirts. Max Mara’s palette of tobacco neutrals, white, polka dot and navy with a shot of yellow. Layered-up sportswear went into the collection of the spring outerwear giving a street edge but to contrast the classic silhouettes were ruffled and twisted detailing refining the coats.  A military vibe down the side of cropped trousers or the sleeves of knitwear and one-shoulder dresses twisted at the waist but elegant basics including classic overcoats with scrunched-up sleeves worn with Bermuda shorts, pleated pants or dresses for a boot effect. 

FENDI 

INDIGITAL

In recent times Fendi has been branded as a luxury streetwear brand but this runway collection by Karl Lagerfeld was more elegant and subtle. Fendi took functionality with transparent PVC outerwear with leather details while jackets, belts and handbags were equipped with pockets. The colour palette was full of neutrals with flashes of oranges and greens and branding was subtle with double-F-logo imprinted. Biker shorts paired with a fur bomber coat or cargo pants with a trailing belt fasted with an airline seatbelt buckle with cropped jumper was on the more casual side. Sculptured silhouettes including leather tops corseted tightly around the waist worn with a straight pencil skirt. For a day we were given pleated skirts but on a evening a series of floral ad animal patterns on silk and fur. Fendi’s famous Peekaboo bag came under a waterproof cover and with interchangeable strap.