PARIS FASHION WEEK RTW S/S 2018 PART 6
Part six of my Paris fashion week highlights, read all about some of my favourite shoes and all about what the collections had to offer.
Disclaimer: I do not own any of the photos used, the rightful owner(s) have been credited. The photos were all taken by ' Indigital'
Disclaimer: I do not own any of the photos used, the rightful owner(s) have been credited. The photos were all taken by ' Indigital'
CELINE
Hedi Silmane era at Celine has just begun and it looks a lot
like Hedi Silmane era at Saint Laurent, the collection focusing on after dark
being titled “Paris la Nuit” translating to “Paris by Night” and the tittle
rightly so describes the collection. The dresses were short, retro sparkles, a
cut out, a fancy sleeve, bow-like bodice that opened the show. Clothing suitable
for the day came in forms of jackets – bombers and cropped – worn over dresses
or with pants. Skinny retro suits referenced Saint Laurent, the whole
collection was highly anticipated fashion felt familiar almost a mix of Dior
Homme’s and Saint Laurent both houses Hedi Silmane has worked with. His prior
work in the industry brought to this collection, the Saint Laurent M.O of
young, edgy runway vibe highlighted by pants, coats, handbags. These items all available
to purchase and the whole collection with set stage for Celine-Saint Laurent
rivalry.
JUNYA WATANABE
Junya Watanabe made a collection dedicated and made around
denim, the only way to dissolve the current dilemma in fashion – adding couture
finesse to everyday adding touches of street wear. Junya assembled 50’s silhouettes
from legs of jeans, suspending skirts with layers of tulle, patchwork jackets and
fishtail bustier dresses. Fit-and-flare dress made from squares of faded denim,
patchwork of stripes and white lace, full skirt in fluffy white tulle. The dresses
hung loose off the body and white T-shirts, overalls and suspender straps
sprouted elaborate skirts. At some point during the show Watanabe switched from
denim to khaki, working in printed slips and scarves. Girly-girls and tomboys
united in single garments of white concert T-shirts and chunky footwear giving
the street-wear edge.
ALTUZARRA
Altuzarra captured sensuality and excitement with this
spring/summer collection bringing sophistication to beach chic, his models
emerging with sun-kissed makeup and wet, slicked-back hair from a dip in the
sea. Undone cardigans and shells designed to button, styled off-the-shoulder,
cropped shirts and jackets in sun-washed bright colours. Altuzarra’s signature
sexy skirts with embroidered lingerie detailing. Peals dangling from gold
seashell earrings accessorising leather coats and cropped leather tops which weren’t
too try-hard with sandals wrapped around the ankle made easy with sensual
stiletto heels.
ELIE SAAB
ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVENNE WESTWOOD
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood brought a whole new
level of wacky with wearable elements all rolled into one. Wallpaper florals
and crafty references went with laced corset tops and grand cocktail dresses
and crocheted fishnet knits and tank tops. The collection touched on streetwear
with pieces flying straight from the runway into your everyday wardrobe. Prints sometimes resembled graffiti and there
were even sneakers and sweatpants.
HERMÉS
Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski for Hermés showed 47 looks in
on-trend neutral colours with the designers signature minimalism with a sporty edge.
Clean silhouettes, crisp hems, simple geometric shapes in tight proportions and
minimal accessories. Modernist version of sailor tops and dresses
opened the show, moving to utility jackets, tailored shorts and zippy woven
dresses. On-brand bright’s – turquoise, red and the signature HermĂ©s orange
popped up to break up the neutrals. Shoes were sporty gladiators, horses’ nose
bags.
SONIA RYKIEL
Allée Sonia Rykiel is now the first designer to have a
street named after her in Paris, not even Coco Chanel or Christian Dior has had
the honour of having a avenue named after their founder. But
Sonia Rykiel who died in 2016 was the first and her successor, Julia de Libran
staged a Parisian Market-themed show to reveal the street as well as to show her
collection to the world. The collection embraced the brand legacy of knitwear
and street-smart casual. Libran expressing the Parisian culture of women
throwing a coat on over a dress from the night before or a big, sweater over
sporty trousers to grab a fresh fruit from the market on a Sunday morning. She
explored day-to-day dressing, there wasn’t a evening gown in sight, dressing
the basics of chunky knits, striped tops, dresses and coats. Models carrying
market bags filled with organic fruit and veg and of course a baguette.
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