PARIS FASHION WEEK RTW S/S HIGHLIGHTS PART 4

Part four of my highlights from Paris Fashion Week. Read to see some of my favourite shows and looks.

Disclaimer: I do not own any of the photos used, the rightful owner(s) have been credited.

ATLEIN 

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Antonin Tron’s collection was a blissful breeze of clothes that weren’t overly complicated but equally weren’t boring either. The show opened with fresh optic white and a dash of muted yellow on a sporty, one-sleeved t-shirt and white pants and a draped tank dress traced the curves of her body. Colour and pattern was explored and he worked with mixes of graphic, tribal patterns and plaids. He mixed prints layering two dresses or a dress and t-shirt. Each look was handled with control for a sophisticated fusion of sportiness and sexiness.

AN DEMEULEMEESTER 

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Powder tones were a poetic addition to a largely black and white collection. The raw hemlines combined with sleeves trailing past models’ fingers were very on brand. A white jacket discreetly tied back with a piece of rope, a cascading cotton dress revealing a row of buttons along the rear. Shirts worn off the shoulder over a sheer tulle dress was haunting. Satin trench coat, first in light pink then in a champagne hue and a white silk skirt worn with a sheer blush blouse. A striped suit in boxy shapes added to a free-flowing collection. Accessories were a focal point: black patent boots seen under a cotton skirt, shoes tied at the ankle with ribbons and leather harnesses hugging shift dresses.

PACO RABANNA 

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Paco Rabbanne’s collection took on a new take for the brand with it offering references to ethics and travelling. An unexpected mood shift for the brand as it went to the seventies Paco Rabanna girl, but glamourized for inspiration. Doessena’s signature metallic colours worked beautifully with mixes of knits and lingerie. Mixing florals, paisley fabrics and lace with mesh overlays, there was a kit going on. Silhouettes went from fitted tops to sari skirts filmy and flowing, Dossena throwing in some classic tailoring in clothes and loafers. Tailoring took a softer side, pants with printed lining and a paper bag waist, worn with short sleeveless biker jacket. The lingerie dresses with flower embroidery added a touch of feminine lightness.

RICK OWENS 

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Rick Owen’s collection let burn, with the literal burning tower in the centre of “Lord Of Darkness” with the theme reflecting the current political drama having it in real time to the show. This dramatic display set the tone for the collection displaying sculptural silhouettes and geometric crown.What Rick Owen’s sent down the runway clothing appropriately apocalyptic. Otherworldly silhouettes created by pillow-like protrusions, pieced-together bodices looking like armour and plenty of black,brown and grey making the clothing. Historical references taken to the runway on armor-like leather dresses, flowing gowns made from stained American flags.

OFF WHITE 

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Virgil Abloh teamed up with Nike and Serena Williams for the sportswear giants spring collection. The collection entitled “Track and Field”, a theme running through his seasonal statement from the female athletes walking in the show and the location. Virgil blends sporty but with refined feminine silhouettes, flowing gowns and trim blazers with track-ready body suits and Nike T-shirts, the blending of gowns with Nike running gear could only be successfully done by Off White. Flo-Jo’s asymmetric running suits are the inspiration behind the red-carpet portion of the show, including a gown of 200 meters of ruffled organza dipped in fluorescent yellow dye. Running tops and cycling shorts made from Nike socks have been unpicked and woven together. Off-White’s CST-100 sneaker and various strappy, ballerina-inspired heels surfaced in various colour-ways, with their trademark hangtag complemented the selection of shiny accessories, including metallic waist bags, cobra belt earrings and chain-link necklaces.

ISABEL MARANT 

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Isabel Marant throws a sparkling sliver party for spring 2019, the collection heavily dominated by yarns and yarns of shiny gunmetal lame, leather and sequins for a woman ready to party. Although upon appearance the collection looks restricted to disco fantasies Marant kept things grounded in a wearable way, however depending on your definition of 'wearable'. Mixing her metals with acid washed denim in the form of high-waisted hot pants, thigh-high pirate boots or bomber jackets mixed with quilted detailing.